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What about a different power adapter? Maybe it is not getting power at all - the power adapter is faulty and is not supplying power to the laptop (or supplying reduced power - causing the 6 blinks). This has happened to me once.
The reduced power from the adapter is not enough to 'crank it up', maybe 
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That could happen... pity is that I can't get another power adaptor... 
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If you have a volt meter you should be able to test to see if the adapter is working. The output of it is some DC voltage that should be labeled on it. Usually around 20VDC.
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Swear at it and tell it if it doesn't start its going to get thrown out the window.
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MUWHAHAAHAHAHAHAAHAAAAAAHAAAaAAaahhhhh..cough COUGH aCk cough...
Yeah, probably I'll try that "new" approach...
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Did it work?
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Today I should receive the replacement laptop... 
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I am good with HP's not working because i have had three of them go wrong because the fans break, glog up, go wrong.
We are being taken for fools these days and the CMOS programs no longer warn about memory being bust or something else being wrong with the hardware like they once did and they just want you to throw it in the bin and to buy a new one.
Trying to open up a laptop to clean/replace something that should be a servicable part is no longer an option because these machines are not build anymore to be opened up by users, trims fall off, wire strips won't push back in, big trouble
If it is the fan then take it to the kitchen, warm up a kitchen knife on the gas ring and cut a hole out above the fan to see whats stopping it, try to fix it.
Now if the fan is past reapair then you can break out the plastic fan blades and glue an external UBB fan over the hole or option 2 is to make a bigger hole to replace the fan unit without trying to splt the machine in two.
I switched over to Dell, not the best move since my Alienware needed a new mothboard on month one and a screen on month ten (These are not cheap) and you need a srewdriver to get at the battery.
Another new Dell also needed a motherboard on month 6
The best one is a Dell XPS with a screen res of 3200 X 1800 and these realy are nice machines but for the money the old HP's were not all that bad apart from the fans.
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I have a Dell sitting on my desk with a broken hard drive... I guess Dell is still using cheap parts (reference to this[^]). 
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I just bought an HP Pavilion notebook, and not wanting Windows 8.1, I decided to install Windows 7. I used Tuxboot to make a bootable USB stick drive to run GParted, which allowed me to repartition to the hard drive in NTFS, from which I was able to install my old copy of Windows 7 Home Premium from another USB stick drive. I fully understand that I need to load in a bunch of drivers, and I downloaded them and put them on yet another USB stick drive. The key here is that the BIOS properly recognizes when a bootable stick drive is attached.
So I am all ready to run the driver EXE files, but I need to somehow get those files onto the hard drive. However, in Windows, the USB stick drive is not recognized! And of course, the wireless modem is not recognized as well, so I am stuck as there is no way to get those driver EXE files onto the hard drive! I tried using Tuxboot to run FreeDOS & Clonezilla, but I couldn't seem to get the job done (in FreeDOS, there only seemed to be the A: & C: drives, corresponding to the OS & stick drive, without there being a drive corresponding to the hard drive.)
I have entered this same question to the HP Support forum, but since I repartitioned the hard drive, they will probably tell me too bad, we will only support you with our buggy and INCREDIBLY CRAPPIFIED install of Windows 8.1. Of course, if anyone can give me pointers applicable to the HP system, that would be great - but I am looking here for advice on how to use FreeDOS or Clonezilla or whatever else to just get me to the point at which I can get the darned files from the USB stick drive onto the hard drive, after which I presume that those driver EXE files will do the trick.
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It is generally a bad idea to transfer an installed copy of Windows to a different system. If you don't have a Windows installation DVD you can ask your friends if they have one and enter the license key of your old system (you are not allowed to use it on your old system anymore).
If you still want to go on with your procedure, you may boot from a Linux live CD/DVD or bootable USB stick. Then mount a partition of your hard drive writable. Finally you are able to copy data from an USB stick to that partition. When the live Linux recognises your network card, you can also download the drivers directly to the mounted partition.
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This was a Windows 7 Home Premium distribution that was downloaded from a largely unknown Micro$oft webpage. I had a license on my old notebook and needed to do a complete reformat & reinstall, and did not have the OEM disc handy; I used the key from that OEM (which I fortuitously had e-mailed myself), and was eventually given a new key to stop the stupid messages. (I used that new key for this latest install.) The system using that hard drive has been discarded, although the hard drive for that has converted into an external drive via an HDD Box; it will no longer be used as a boot drive, and will be reformatted when the files from there have been properly offloaded.
I will try that Linux Live.
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I have some strange issues going on with my Development PC. Running Windows 7 Home Premium. I'm not very good with hardware, so please bear with me.
First, I lost my audio. I didn't notice it until I tried to answer a Skype call and the other person couldn't hear me.
Now, my speakers are out. All I hear is a faint squeaking sound.
Here's a screen shot[^] of my Management Console.
1. On the left, I have no idea what the Realtek Digital Output is or where it came from. I used to hear sound from the Speakers.
2. The headphones were a wireless kind with the little USB plugin thingy. I no longer have it. How do I get rid of it in the Sounds?
3. The ATI and Speakers cannot be enabled. The only option for both is Disable, but it's already disabled. How do I change the sounds to use the speakers?
4. In the Management Console, there doesn't appear to be any conflicts or problems that I can see.
I feel like I have some kind of USB collision or problem. Is there a way to get my PC to reset or rescan all USB devices?
Anyone have any ideas here?
Thanks
If it's not broken, fix it until it is
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Thank you
If it's not broken, fix it until it is
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This message has been also posted on Arduino site - Due forum.
I am using ATmel Studio ( 6.2 SP 2) ASF example to test program Arduino Due.
[b]I do not want to use VisualMicro wrapper for Arduino IDE.[b][/b][/b]
The (only ONE) example compiles, won't download to Due port and then I get a cryptic error message about missing "connected tool".
Apparently the ASF examples require either hardware of software debugging "tool".
The documentation really does not explain what this "tool" is nor how to add it to the Studio.
There is an empty pull down box titled "Selected debugger / programmer" under Tool tab.
So far I am unable to post this to ATmel ARM forum, but I got some answers from ATmel AVR forum which I appreciate.
I also found old (2012 ) and now apparently abandoned site which shows running the same example without need for this mysterious "tool".
I am sure I am also missing the programming port assignment for ASF, but got one working for VisualMicro.
I would like to hear from someone who "<b>been there done that"</b>.
Cheers Vaclav
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Scenario:
- We have a third-party data acquisition device which communicates over USB utilizing USB Bulk Endpoints.
- We will be using the device to generate approximately 34Kbytes of data / sample at about 30Hz sampling rate (total about 1MB/sec).
- We can trigger a sample acquisition and the device can hold the 34K of data until it is "sent" via the USB.
- The vendor states the device is "streaming the data out of a small hardware buffer (512 bytes) on the device directly to the USB to achieve the highest performance".
- The device will refuse to acquire the next sample unless the previous 34K has all been sent.
- Missing a data acquisition is an unacceptable condition.
Potential issue:
As many of us have experienced, Windows sometimes just seems to “zone out” (daydreaming?) and this might cause the USB driver to go too long between requests for data.
The total amount of data bandwidth is not pushing the bounds of USB capabilities, but the timing is (in conjunction with the small device USB buffer).
Questions:
- What are recommended strategies for addressing the issue above?
- On a modern multi-core platform, is it a realistic concern?
- Can USB servicing be made a high(er) priority activity for the OS?
- Would Windows Embedded Compact be a better "host" OS?
* At least for the data collection?
* How different is development for Windows Embedded Compact?
Thanks.
A positive attitude may not solve every problem, but it will annoy enough people to be worth the effort.
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The USB servicing by Windows is running with a higher priority but not your application.
At first you should check if the driver for your USB device supports increasing the size of his internal receive buffer. This may help if the default size is smaller than your 34 KB.
A common solution would be using a worker thread running with a higher priority to receive the date and store them in a ring buffer of sufficient size. The thread must be of course event driven (new data available). When all sample data has been received by the thread it can trigger the next sampling and send a user defined message to your GUI thread indicating that new data are available.
Tasks delaying your communication are mainly hardware related actions like disk and network transfers. When you have implemented the worker thread you can check for missing acquisitions by starting such actions (e.g. copying files from a network share to a local disk or USB drive). If necessary, increase the priority of the worker thread. But note that this is a rather simple and system dependant method.
I have done this for a serial communication using a serial to USB converter where status line events must be handled before the next event occurs.
This does not answer all your questions but I hope it will be useful.
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Hello! I need you guys help to develop human monitoring device which can show specific location of the object either the device is on or off. But the news behind this is that i don't know where to start. Please is there anyone who can put me through out there? In C# language
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The first thing you need to do is study the documentation for the device.
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Apart from the first thing being that "you know the C# language, and the specification about the device architechture", you need to know that there is no such device yet created (or in my knowledge) that can run when it is "off"; as you've mentioned.
Then, you can go and Google for any such device, that you can find helpfull, in executing your set of instructions, if you're not going to purchase a server. There are multiple choices for you to select from, and you will find yourself easy to find a lot of new devices in the market that let you kick-start your projects by coding them out. Raspberry Pi is one of them, and you can write application for it, to make it work as you want it to.
The sh*t I complain about
It's like there ain't a cloud in the sky and it's raining out - Eminem
~! Firewall !~
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I have a motherboard monitoring program on my PC. Along with temperatures, it tells the measured voltages coming out of the power supply.
Here's the question: For the -12v rail, it's hovering around -7 volts and goes as low as -3. For the -5v rail, it's reading -4 volts. Should I consider replacing the power supply? The machine seems to be running fine otherwise.
The difficult we do right away...
...the impossible takes slightly longer.
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There are different types of sensor chips used on motherboards. It seems that your monitoring program detects a wrong type because your system is operating without problems.
You may try another program or better measure the voltage using a multimeter.
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Those numbers are not correct. I'd verify the values on the 23-pin connector with a good multimeter before trusting that code.
The correct voltages for an ATX 2.2 Power Supply are -5, -12, +3.3, +5 and +12, all with a tolerance of 5%.
You can get the pinouts for the connectors just by Googling for "ATX Power Supply 12V pinout". Make sure you match the ATX version on the power supply label with the document you're looking at!
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Thanks Dave, I think that's what I will do. I just have to find the motivation to get in there and unplug the motherboard connector.
The difficult we do right away...
...the impossible takes slightly longer.
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