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This thing has a handle of flat steel that splits into a wide U, almost Y shaped but the V part of the Y is a U. At the end of each side of the U is a pin, and a pulley has a whole on either side of it's main nut, so when you put this thing on the pulley, you can hold it to stop it turning while you loosed or tighten the main axle nut of the pulley.
I need to remove a pulley that I have zero means of stopping it turning the same direction I'm trying to loosen the nut.
Dave, you are a mechanic and a gentleman. It wasn't easy, there wasn't much but the kick-start axle to blobk the mole pliers, and at the torque of that nut, nobody could have held them by hand. A short length of pipe on the wrench handle and a few abrupt upward pulls finally gave me that satisfying crack when the bastard loosens.
It's a good thing I didn't skip this step: the old rollers were looking very untidy and not all lying nicely sidewise. My new belt, and me, would have been at high risk for two weeks - until payday and I took it to a workshop, hehe.
I've never heard of a variator, Brady, but that pulley looks to be riddled with stress cracks. The vanes on it look thick enough to use a strap wrench, though, or if that doesn't work, a flat piece of steel wedged between a pair of vanes should do to anchor it while you turn the nut. If those lines are cracks, as they appear to be, I'd be replacing that pulley straight away, before the whole assembly disintegrates!
A pulley style CVT drive has two pulleys, a variator at the front, and a clutch at the back. The variator changes diameter according to engine revs, thus changing the gear ratio between it and the clutch pulley.
It certainly does look a bit long in the tooth, crack-wise though. Think it will last two weeks of very light driving?
One way to do it that emulates the tool would be to put two close-fitting bolts in the two holes, then use a bar between them to lever it - you'd have to be careful because the bar would have to go over the top of the socket you were using to turn the nut, but...if you have a good ring spanner that fits tightly round the nut you should be able to wedge that against the ground and turn the pulley instead of the nut if you have a heavy bloke sitting on the motor.
If you have space between the pulley and the crankcase, a pair of nuts on each bolt (one each side of the pulley) would help keep things tight while you lever it all round. Do you know if it is right or left thread? Generally it's the opposite of the crank rotation to make sure it self tightens (and you don't want to try and go the wrong way!)
If you get an email telling you that you can catch Swine Flu from tinned pork then just delete it. It's Spam.
Way back when ... I made sure to remove a head and cylinder and then inserted the biggest screwdriver in my kit through the piston/throw bearing. This had the effect of keeping the crank from turning once the screwdriver seated on the case.
Might also require an impact wrench to free up that 19mm (sp?) nut. Sometimes there''s the overzealous mechanic and the tube of locktite that did the future damage (squeeze time machine)1
Now the hardest part remains. Putting the air filter back over the transmission casing. I removed it by pulling it hard enough to pop out the carb's air tube, which there is no way to reach. I don't think I'll get it back like that.
Just thought of another solution to the problem. Wouldn't have to remove the head or the cylinder or apply the screwdriver treatment to the wrist pin. Just get out your portable drill, apply a half-inch drill bit to a high-sided (above the belt) area of the pulley, get both halves in the bite ... and voila, local leverage hole.
I imagine this pulley is probably pressed steel but it wouldn't be hardened. Be careful to choose a leverage (ok, don't put away that screwdriver yet) point behind the works though. White metal or any mischhmash of aluminum and alloy is notoriously soft, and flanges, even screw holes of 1/8" thickness, are easy to break ... off.