i trying to build up a program that send a bitmap to the lan printer directly to the ip address
i'm looking for code (c#,c++) that can make the job like the printer driver do.
something that can "talk" with the printer and send directions and data.
i have a service that sends thousands printings to several printers (lan & wan) and it's take long time until the page go out,
getting the driver from the print server, init the printer, spooling (in the server that spool the printer hardware...)
i realised that if i install simple driver(PCL5 etc..) for advanced printer it's work faster!
where i can find piece of code that send to the printer ip some instructions for start ?
I have got old drum machine with 240x64 LCD screen,
What I want to do is send signal from ribbon LCD to PC and encode to see all information on PC screen(240x64 is very tired to looks for 4-8 hours when I work in the studio)
This ribbon coming from drum machine mother board after lc7981
How to connect to PC ?(USB board or pallalel)
ON that ribbon I have got this data:
pin on LC7981 and data:
5.MB LC drive signal
10.FLM Frame signal
11.CL1 Display data latch signal
46.CL2 Display data shift clock signal
47.D1 Display data Upper SCreen
do I need anithing more?
Any LCD simulator in PC or Mac ?
Or I need to read my program ?
Thank You for your answer ))
It is no easy to find musician on this platform
This is old sampler Akai Mpc 3000
I am looking for some info how rebuild or reverse existing LCD to VGA board (very fussy works only with few monitors because 31.5 kHz/ 59hz )or build new one.
I have got schematic and good pictures (but use peel18cv8 and 22v10 with security bit on
It means not POsIBILE to copy).
I am not sure about SDK for Akai?
If some one can help me
I've seen interfaces to do from a PC to an LCD but I haven't seen anyone go from from an LCD to a PC. There are a number of practical problems you would have to overcome.
Rather than trying to do something after the LCD controller chip, you might be better off picking off the the signal between the micro-controller and the LCD controller chip. The interface will be simpler. Between the central micro and the LCD controller the interface would likely be 7 to 12 pins depending on if they implemented half-word or full-word interfacing. If you can identify the data pins (Usually D0 thru D3 or D7) and the clock pin, you could probably program you own micro-controller to emulate the LCD control chip (and hence the whole display). Starting with the pin-out on the LCD control chip would be a good place to begin. (Actually, the manual on that chip would probably be required to have half a shot at making this work) However, you'll need to break out a logic analyzer and you'll probably need to write your own emulator using something like an Atmel AVR micro. Those chips would work well because they have a USART that you can connect back to a PC to pass in the display data as a serial data stream. Then you would just need to craft something on the PC to receive that data stream and display it in a 'virtual lcd' on screen.
Hello, Guys. Again , thank You for answers.
How I can see it is no point to works with LC7981(LCD controller).
For beginner like me, probably I need some more advice:
-which avr xmega interface (board) for controlling LCD (virtual in PC )
With USB and parallel port can I use for this project(links or full item name will be
-which connectors have to read (obtain) from MCU.
I know data bus(D0-D7) , CS/, R/W and which more? To
Connect to xmega interface or o'scope?
Most any of the Mega chips would probably work. The Tiny stuff won't likely have enough pins so you could probably skip it. I've been working with the Mega128 recently on a project and find it to be fast enough with plenty of memory for my needs. And I am driving an LCD with it that has the HD44780 controller chip using just the half addressing (to keep pin count down) while also reading a serial data stream at 250 kbps and pulse-width-modulating an output at a 10 us duty-cycle. All while clocking the chip at just 16Mhz. (It goes to 20Mhz)
You will need a programmer and Atmel Studio 6. The software is available on their web site for free. You can save some money by purchasing the STK500 programmer (which will program the Mega128) or you can find a third-party programmer that implements ISP (In System Programming). And buy a few chips... they are cheap and you'll likely lock yourself out of at-least one. Everybody does at some time or another.
I think that you could probably have good success with this chip. You would need to identify the pins on the LC7981 that are connected to the microcontroller and figure out which is which. The good thing is that the LC7981 will only be connected to two things; the microprocessor and the LCD, so figuring out what is what should be pretty easy with the manual for that chip.
You *should* be able to set the pins on the AVR to high-impedence input mode and be able to pick-off the signals in-circuit... at least while you are testing and debugging. For a permanent install I would suggest desoldering the LC7981 and wire-up the pins on the Mega128 in its place. This is where a logic analyzer will be a big help. You'll need an acquisition rate at least twice the clock rate of the CPU in the device (likely 8Mhz but you may have to decode the information on a crystal to know for sure.) The analyzer will let you see the electrical signals as they happen in-circuit. The manual for the LC7981 chip should address the timing sequences for the pins which you should be able to verify with a logic analyzer. The manual will also talk about the initialization sequence and what, specifically, the chip will do for the different command modes. All this has to be provided so the guys writing the software on the micro side know how to drive the controller chip properly. The LCD controllers don't take serial commands... it is all at the bit level and driven by the clock... very low-level. But the manual for the LC7981 will cover all of that. Your task would be to write code for a Mega that would emulate this behavior. If I were attacking this I would likely figure out a way to execute an ISR (interrupt service routine) on the CS line. When the Mega sees this go high or low (depending on which is the 'valid' state), then the Mega can read/decode the data lines. Making it interrupt driven would be the way to go in my opinion.
There are some libraries out there for the Mega's that will drive various LCD controller chips. Looking at some of them might help you understand that side of the equation. You might also read up on http://avrfreaks.net and post some questions there. Note that the people there don't suffer poorly asked questions very well. You should make sure you have a well thought out and to the point question before you post over there.
There are also a lot of tutorials on sending serial data from an AVR chip to a PC. You will need that to send the data from the Mega to the PC. If I were you, I would probably try to keep this simple. Assuming the LC7981 works like most other controllers, the micro will load a character at a time onto the interface and clock it into the display controller. There are also control codes to clear the display, move the cursor, etc. I would turn those into similar control characters that could be send over the serial link while passing alpha characters as-is. If you do it this way, you could 'debug' the PC side of things using just hyperterm or something like that to read the stream of characters coming in. If the letters, numbers, and control characters are transmitted to the PC as they arrive at the AVR, you can pretty it all up in an app later.
You might also check and see if you have a hacker-space in your area. You can probably find someone there like me that knows the AVR stuff and might want to take this on as a project with you. This is the kind of novel project that guys like me are always looking for to take on as a personal project... out of the mainstream and yet very intriguing. I think the idea is cool and I could actually see something like this being useful beyond your project.
There's really no good reason this drive isn't being detected. It's probably a safety feature of the computer since booting off CD or USB is an easy way to get to the files in the HDD. Look through the BIOS settings as already recommended.
It may also be possible that your booted OS doesn't understand the file system of the HDD OS. This would only be a problem if they're different operating systems. If it can't understand the file system, it probably wouldn't attempt to mount it since you can do permanent damage mounting a drive with an incompatible file system.
I have Installed and Booted Debian 6 on/from USB Device.
I have a new HDD, On which the operating System in USB should be copied.
Since the Operating System in USB is Linux, It is possible to copy the entire file system from one booteable media to another, I have tried this with two HDD's and made it work.
But when i try to copy file system from USB to HDD, I can't able to detect HDD on boot and manually.
Typically you can manually mount a hard drive if you can find it. Off the top of my head, I can't remember how you go about mounting a hard drive to a logical drive (look up the mount command, also, Linux has a fairly straight forward drive naming convention so you may be able to easily mount it).
The device usually has to have a "B" USB port on it making it a node (rather than a hub, which provides power). I have not seen a Win 8 device designed to be a node. It is always the root hub and so seems to always be equipped with the "A" port. I don't think the USB specs allow the consumption of power via an "A" port. So the short answer, I believe, is no.
Wow... that is actually pretty cool. I think the battery in the keyboard is a pretty novel idea. I've got to hand it to Lenovo... that are really innovating in this area. I got one of the Intel Ultrabooks in the App Innovation contest and without fail, everyone I showed it to asked me if it was "the one that the display flips around on"? Which is, of course, the Lenovo (I had to begrudgingly admit).
I noticed the reviewer seemed down on the idea that it charged through the USB port. I can understand why... the current limit is pretty low so I imagine the the charge/discharge ratio is in negative territory (so it takes more than an hour to get an hour of runtime). I've noticed that on my Nexus 7 tablet if I plug it into a "standard" USB port... it will take 10 to 12 hours to fully charge. It needs a high-current USB port or, better yet, the high-current charger it came with. I bet that the Win 8 tab would see the same behavior.
So, I'm doing my first PC build in about 10 years, and I've never installed an after-market heatsink (the kind with the big tower, etc.). I got the tower mounted to the mb and processor fine, but for the life of me, I can't figure out how to attach the fan to the tower. The fan has two arrows at the top that are at right angles, and the fan is supposed to be mounted by two (or four?) high-tension wire clips that slip into the fins on the tower. The instructions are absurdly awful with no clear diagrams. I can't even tell which way the fan is supposed to point, much less how to mount it.
It's a ThermalRight True Spirit 140 ([^]); any tips on installing?
Well the picture in your link shows the fan held on by a couple of wire clips. If they didn't ship, I don't know what you can do. You might be able to just tie it down with a bit of hard foam or something to cushion it. Millimetre-perfect location is not important. You should be able to figure which way round from the curve of the blades in the pic.
wrt the arrows: One shows which way the blades move, the other shows which way the air moves.
Software rusts. Simon Stephenson, ca 1994. So does this signature. me, 2012
Thanks; I was able to figure it out from the pictures the next day. Those clips were included but were an absolute beast to install. I'm not sure why they think they have to be that tight, but that easily took up half of my total hardware installation time.
Way back when I worked in speech recognition Andrea noie cancelling mics were the best. Make sure to have the mic off to the side of your mouth, you dont need to shout directly into it, and if you arent breathing all over it it will understand you better.
I had a problem with my laptop, when i started it, it showed a blue screen and then could not start normally except through safe mode. It is slow and has lost volume. What could be the problem and how do i solve it?
There's a chance the hardware in your computer is bad, in other words, the devices and circuitry inside your computer is probably fried or suffered water damage to the point it's causing serious issues for your system. How long has you since not used it? Did anything happen to it in the past that you may think is causing it a problem now?
What I would do is get a hard drive enclosure for a internal hard drive for a laptop and take all your documents off it and copy it to an external hard drive and then re-image your PC (reinstall Windows) with the internal hard drive in it (after putting your documents in a safe place).
Simple Thanks and Regards,
Brandon T. H.
Programming in C and C++ now, now developing applications, services and drivers (and maybe some kernel modules...psst kernel-mode drivers...psst).
Many of life's failures are people who did not realize how close they were to success when they gave up. - Thomas Edison
In safe mode look at your system recovery settings and set it to create a full kernel dump when it crashes.
Then go to \system\ and look for memory.dmp
Copy it to another machine and install Windbg and open the dmp file.
Look in the Help and set the symbol path to Microsofts public symbols (search for symsrv in Help) then do an analyze -v and see what it says.
Then google the resultant error message, you could have a dodgy driver, there are plenty about, or it could be bad memory.
If you think you have found a bad driver restart the machine and run Verifier.exe at a command prompt and then set it to specifically check that driver, selecting most of the test options except 'low resource simulation' and the 'force delayed IO' or whatever it is called, reboot into normal mode, and see what happens.
If it blue screens again you *should* get a Verifier BSOD (blue screen of death) that will tell you more about the particular error. Then you can get an updated driver off the net or bitch to the company that made that crappy driver and get them to write you a new one.
32-bit versions of Windows are able to use up to 4 gigs of RAM. However, at times they might report a smaller amount as usable. Try flashing your BIOS to the latest version. That fixes most of memory issues. Go to the manufacturer's website for the latest BIOS drivers.
Also from the screenshot, your computer has a 64-bit CPU. Try getting a 64-bit version of Windows.
the simple solution use the 64-bit version of windows.
the other solution is that , you use a VGA " graphic card " that used a shared memory and he is taking from your ram , and to solve this go to your "Bios" and search for " Onboard VGA " or what equals it , then set your amount of ram that the VGA can use as a memory .
I am trying to change the tab stops on the printer before I send formatted text (w/Tabs) to it. I can change the tab stops in stringFormat and use it when calling DrawString but they are completely ignored, e.g.,
My computer is connected to 2 Local Area Network.
One of them have internet access, and the other one don't.
But while browsing, the internet seems like working periodically.
Why I use two LAN?
It's because the one which had internet access is Mifi. (ZTE)
I'm not good about networking.
I need to connect both of them with my internet working properly, is it possible?
Sorry for bad english.
Yes, your computer can access more than one network at a time, but it can't be through the same network interface.
IE, you can't be connected to two different wireless networks, or two different wired networks at the same time, through the same "card". Now, if you had an internal wireless adapter, and then a PCMCIA or USB adapter, then each could connect to a separate network.
The easiest way, since you're using wireless right now to access the internet, is set up a wired connection to the new router that's going to be stand alone.
The only thing you'll have to make sure is that the two networks are on different subnets. What I mean by that is:
If the wireless IP is currently 192.168.0.X, then the wired would have to be anything above 192.168.1.X. To avoid network confusion, don't put a default gateway in on the wired network, so the only adapter the computer will try to use for internet access is the wireless link.