That would be possible – the (only) LAN cable is installed closely to an extension lead with 6 plugs... I'm gonna try to change that, test the function again over night and report. The idea would correlate with the fact that in the old house everything in that respect was absolutely fine.
I read from what you write that there's no chance the computer (through the LAN sockets) would send anything (probably a test signal that could be misinterpreted) causing the router to re-boot. If I can drop this suspicion, I feel at least a little bit more on a track.
I got the impression your wifi works, but not your cat-5 cable connection. I would look at the cable and connectors; maybe you're shorting.
"Before entering on an understanding, I have meditated for a long time, and have foreseen what might happen. It is not genius which reveals to me suddenly, secretly, what I have to say or to do in a circumstance unexpected by other people; it is reflection, it is meditation." - Napoleon I
Have you tried using powerline adapters with separate short ethernet cables instead of a long ethernet cable (you don't actually specify how long the connection is)?
I have been using powerline adapters for many years without any problems. However, I lose quite a lot of speed as I run them across ring circuits (3 PCs on a triple port 200Mbps adapter on one ring, Router and NAS each with single port 500Mbps adapters on another ring) where they 'talk' through the distribution box (which is not recommended). Prior to 802.11n, this setup was faster than wireless (not all of my devices have wireless cards). Interestingly, if one of the PCs communicates with the NAS unit, the power adapters ignore the router and form an ad hoc link directly between the source and target nodes.
The cheapest price for a pair of 1Gbps single port adapters that I have seen today is £19.99 (you need a pair: 1 for the PC, 1 for the router).
I am new on this forum and this is my first post. I am having a serious problem recently on my computer. I have been using Visual Studio software since a few months, but I am noticing for a few days, when I run this software, CPU usage is going to near about 80-90%. No other programs are open on my computer. Then why it is happening, I don't understand. Can someone help me to solve the issue? Any suggestion would be greatly appreciated.
I have applied this process by disconnecting the speaker from computer as there are no other devices connected there, only the speaker is connected. After removing this the CPU usage is showing near about 40%. Since the speaker does not need to be used that way, so I disconnected it. Anyway now I am able to work with my computer. I did not encounter a problem till now.
I have a box with many large-capacity harddrives and I'm running Windows 10 (I might be from the future and I'm getting a message from myself telling me that Windows 10 is now passe; what are ya going to do, right?). At least three of my large-capacity drives are HIDDEN, meaning that no drive letter is currently assigned to them. All drives on the system show up in Device Manager, even the ones that are only partition stubbs and have never held any data or user-accessible content.
The reason for putting these drives behind the scenes is many fold (ha, "manifold"). The main reason being that the content kept on them is redundant. Which leads me to my question:
When Windows, in general, begins it's reign of supremacy over my UPDATE/UPGRADE schedule, by background loading/downloading/installing then insisting (on whatever final action is necessary to some degree) on displaying the green checkmark, is "it" capable or does it "actually" take a look at those drives that Windows Explorer CAN NOT see (the aforementioned hidden members) to describe some system state and/or take note of drive space on them ... before it begins this tirade of going through the download/install update?
So, I guess I'm also asking whether anyone has ever encountered Windows sacking disc-space on a drive they've deemed non-accessible just for this non-documented behavioral annoyance?
I am finding it hard to find information about escape codes that the camera Canon EOS 2000D would respond to. Usually I connect devices such as a telescope mount through the serial port and I send strings to the mount and so on.
Canon do supply DLL libraries that allow communication with the camera. I am wondering if anyone has experience with this method, more importantly how to connect to the camera Wirelessly.
I also have a Skywatcher AZ-GTI mount that also connects wirelessly and I would like to also control it via my software NTC [network telescope control]. I have the necessary information for the mount, but not with the camera.
Nevertheless, Canon do supply the necessary DLL's. The other problem I have is how to connect to both devices together. One solution I have it to use two repeaters, each connecting to either device. Both repeaters then connect to a hub and my Windows machine plugs into the hub. How the IP addresses work then I don't know.
One customer asked me to replace an HDD in an old computer (robot controller).
Now they have there a 2.5" 60GB HDD ATA-7 HDD plugged using an IDE to ATA-7 converter (the computer have an IDE interface).
Do you think that would work? Is it possible to use a simple conversion device and not needing to install drivers? My plan would be to burn an image of the previous HDD into the new SSD one and plug it.
It should be possible; I have done it recently on two Windows 10 laptops. I used the SSD manufacture's software to copy the image from the hard drive to the SSD. I then swapped devices, powered up, and the system runs fine.
BTW, the link in your signature looks suspiciously like spam. You may wish to remove it.
(Apologies for the repeat --- I posted this in the Lounge yesterday, before someone pointed me to the proper forum)
For those in DIY electronics...
Exactly how good is USB for providing power to a device? I specifically mean devices that are not attached to a computer and use the USB cable strictly for power.
I've long felt that we need a standardized low-voltage DC power source coming right out of our walls, much in the manner that we currently have 120V (or 220V) AC coming out of our walls -- to eliminate the need of all those "brick" power adapters cluttering our power strips. The last time I discussed this publicly (about 10+ years ago), I was scoffed, with the reason being every device uses a different voltage. (I rejected that, as AC devices were able to adapt to use 110V, so DC devices could adapt to use the standardized voltage).
The real problem was that every device used it's own plug size (and selling the proprietary adapter was a profit center). However, now there's some movement to power things with USB cables.
So, the question for the electrically minded here: If all you had available to power your device was an USB cable, would that be viable?
Last Visit: 31-Dec-99 18:00 Last Update: 26-Sep-22 21:57