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I am facing weird things latelly too...
my mother in law has randomally no sound at all, not even the green bar when one changes the volume and then it sounds "clink".
It was all working fine, until she started to install messengers for video conferences... she has 5 of them 
Teams, BlueButton and RedConnect due to Work
Zoom due to some distance university lessons she is doing
Skype for some remote "pilates" lessons
M.D.V. 
If something has a solution... Why do we have to worry about?. If it has no solution... For what reason do we have to worry about?
Help me to understand what I'm saying, and I'll explain it better to you
Rating helpful answers is nice, but saying thanks can be even nicer.
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Nelek wrote: my mother in law has randomally no sound at all,
Then you should be thankful. 
Freedom is the freedom to say that two plus two make four. If that is granted, all else follows.
-- 6079 Smith W.
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You are evil... 
M.D.V.
If something has a solution... Why do we have to worry about?. If it has no solution... For what reason do we have to worry about?
Help me to understand what I'm saying, and I'll explain it better to you
Rating helpful answers is nice, but saying thanks can be even nicer.
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Nelek wrote: until she started to install messengers for video conferences... she has 5 of them
Something I sometimes experience is that Zoom or Teams changes my default audio output or switches them around.
Normally, I've got my speakers and my headphones and they have different volumes.
It's not at all obvious even when it works as intended.
So anyway, I go into a Teams meeting and my sound is adjusted and suddenly I'm on another output.
Or, I'm on another output while Windows still shows the other one.
Or Teams says I'm using headphones, but I still hear stuff despite not having headphones plugged in, or vice versa, or backwards and inwards out...
It's a bit of a mess sometimes
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mmmhhh... that gives an idea... thank you
M.D.V.
If something has a solution... Why do we have to worry about?. If it has no solution... For what reason do we have to worry about?
Help me to understand what I'm saying, and I'll explain it better to you
Rating helpful answers is nice, but saying thanks can be even nicer.
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How long has it been since it had a clean OS install? I ask because I've found that after three or four years we've put so much crap on our PCs that they start to become unstable. Possibly time for a full backup of your data and a complete reinstall of the OS, and I mean complete as in delete the partition table during OS setup.
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Less than two years actually.
I'm also not one to install many things.
I've got my regular work stuff and I delete anything I don't need (anymore).
So far, a complete OS install is taking me way more time than an occasional reset, so I'm good, thanks
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Usually there's a relation between what's in Task Manager and response.
At startup, the anti-virus will be hogging the CPU. If I see anything I don't like, I disable it (from startup), or delete it all together (like Google Chrome for always doing "something" in the background).
It was only in wine that he laid down no limit for himself, but he did not allow himself to be confused by it.
― Confucian Analects: Rules of Confucius about his food
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Would booting up in safe mode uncover anything?
"One man's wage rise is another man's price increase." - Harold Wilson
"Fireproof doesn't mean the fire will never come. It means when the fire comes that you will be able to withstand it." - Michael Simmons
"You can easily judge the character of a man by how he treats those who can do nothing for him." - James D. Miles
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I'd be finished testing my code by now but I am terrible at soldering. 
Somehow, this is a thing that happens.
Real programmers use butterflies
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honey the codewitch wrote: I am terrible at soldering.
Isn't that a hardware problem? 
Freedom is the freedom to say that two plus two make four. If that is granted, all else follows.
-- 6079 Smith W.
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That's what I thought too.
I'm trying to test a series of 8x8 LED matrices arranged in different layouts. The trouble is I have two batteries of 8x8 segments, each 4 in a row.
I'd like to connect the two batteries and create a 4x2 battery of 8x8 segments for a total of 32x16 "pixels"
However, in order to do that I need to solder a connector onto one of those batteries of segments so that it can be daisy chained.
Only then will I know if my *software* accurately handles multiple rows of segments. So it's a hardware problem that creates a software issue. - something that crops up with IoT stuff.
Real programmers use butterflies
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I have a lot of challenges with soldering and just ordered this new soldering iron station[^].
I had a really cheap soldering iron (took a long time to heat up and was way too large).
This one has really helped me and I can't believe how much easier things are with it.
You probably already have a nice soldering iron, but if you don't I highly recommend the switch.
Check out the difference in size of my cheapy one (right) vs. my new one (left)[^].
The new one is so much easier to control.
I am an amateur so I didn't even know to know there was a difference. 
Just a thought. Good luck.
modified 22-May-21 21:16pm.
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I used to use an American Beauty 40W for most fine work. And an _old_ Weller gun ( try to find an old one with copper "tube" ( transformer secondary - the new ones all are Al. and the connections die on you. ) for when you need to slam things.
That said, I highly recommend this https://gokimco.com/products/hakko-fx888d-digital-soldering-station?variant=31349108113460&utm_source=google&utm_medium=cpc&utm_campaign=Google%20Shopping&gclid=EAIaIQobChMI4OHmlsLi8AIVn21vBB3egA_ZEAQYBCABEgLS2vD_BwE[^]
I run it ( by failing memory ) 475 F with Kester lead-free for putting LEDs etc into circuit boards. Nicely made kit.
I've gotten boards from Express PCB Manufacturing Service – ExpressPCB[^]
There are several places that do small short run jobs and supply software.
Their Standard MiniBoardPlus was a good fit for me. Their free software functions, but is very basic and a bit awkward. ( I haven't tried the newer version. )
Worked OK for the simple stuff I did.
The PanaVise is very useful. A wrist - side of hand - pinky rest should help the shake. I use readers so that I'm VERY nearsighted.
You learn to see small color / gloss differences as the solder turns liquid.
Keep your tip clean and shiny, don't leave it idle longer than needed. I usually let it hit temp, wipe it, touch it to solder, start making joints.
Use the sponge, keep it soaked, a small thing of rosin is sometimes useful. Usually, rosin core will supply plenty of flux, but if your tip gets dirty ( oh, I use several, but a small chisel tip seems usually best for component leads ) you may need the extra.
Can't think of much else, wick or a solder sucker can help when you make a mistake.
Have fun,
dave
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Shaky hands are my main problem - always had them.
Real programmers use butterflies
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Just takes a good iron and practice, you'll get the hang of it!
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I have shaky hands.
Real programmers use butterflies
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Yeah my hands are starting to shake also.
Getting old sucks don't it?
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Mine have always been shaky.
Real programmers use butterflies
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I have shaky hands too and I was watching a guy paint signs the other day and he was using a stabilizing stick for his working hand. Found this video[^], I don't think you need to get as far in depth as this, but maybe it would be something that could help.
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Serious reply:
Get the smallest lightest soldering pencil you can find, that you can comfortably hold in a pencil grip (not a saucepan grip). You should be able to steady it all on the heel of your hand or pinkie edge.
Some of the butane gas ones are excellent, once you get the hang of temperature control.
Cheers from an old hardware guy,
Peter
Software rusts. Simon Stephenson, ca 1994. So does this signature. me, 2012
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That's not all your fault: modern (lead free) solder needs a higher temperature, and doesn't "flow" as well as the older (leaded) stuff did. And the higher temp means you have to work faster, or you can damage diodes like LEDs and so forth - they don't like to exceed 350C, and lead solder needs >420C to flow at all well. (Leaded was >360C so you had more time.)
It's even worse if you are trying to solder banks with wire, as you haven't got the PCB to act as a heatsink.
I'm much worse at lead free soldering than I was a leaded, but I switched in 2001 in anticipation of the 2006 EU legislation. New solder, solder pot, irons, SMT irons, staff retraining, ... it was an expensive business (we had to keep leaded kit as well for repair work, you can't "touch up" leaded electronics with an unleaded tip).
It you are tinning wires before you start soldering everything on, then I'd really recommend a solder pot - they aren't expensive (but are seriously dangerous) and they tin better and quicker than hand work.
"I have no idea what I did, but I'm taking full credit for it." - ThisOldTony
"Common sense is so rare these days, it should be classified as a super power" - Random T-shirt
AntiTwitter: @DalekDave is now a follower!
modified 22-May-21 16:26pm.
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Why are solder pots dangerous ?
"I didn't mention the bats - he'd see them soon enough" - Hunter S Thompson - RIP
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About the size of a coffee mug, filled with liquid metal at 400C ... I'd suggest some care and attention to detail is needed ...
"I have no idea what I did, but I'm taking full credit for it." - ThisOldTony
"Common sense is so rare these days, it should be classified as a super power" - Random T-shirt
AntiTwitter: @DalekDave is now a follower!
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Point taken
"I didn't mention the bats - he'd see them soon enough" - Hunter S Thompson - RIP
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