|
My current main employer had a contractor who subcontracted to have a database created in India.
It was text-book quality in design. That, unfortunately, is why it was basically useless.
I don't fault the developers, themselves - they filled the specs they were given. They simply lacked
(1)Cultural insight . . . which perhaps should have been supplied
(2)The Stones . . . to point out that the design could be more effective with half as many tables
Lesson learned - and hence, as an in-house resource, I'm busier than ever.
| "The difference between genius and stupidity is that genius has its limits." - Albert Einstein | | "As far as we know, our computer has never had an undetected error." - Weisert | | "If you are searching for perfection in others, then you seek disappointment. If you are seek perfection in yourself, then you will find failure." - Balboos HaGadol Mar 2010 |
|
|
|
|
|
Hello,
So finally I have decided to purchase DSLR and need your help here. Has anyone used Nikon D3200? Which is better Nikon or Canon. I can a go with a little high budget but not a lot.
Thanks 
|
|
|
|
|
Quite a matter of taste actually.
Answer yourself two questions:
1. Which camera is the easier and more natural to handle for you?
2. Which brand has the lenses that you want?
If question one is hard to answer you can go to a camera shop and rent a camera for a day. At least I can do that where I live. And If I tell them the purpose of the rental I get the money back when I buy a camera.
Be excellent to each other. And... PARTY ON, DUDES!
Abraham Lincoln
|
|
|
|
|
As with Jorgen, it is really a matter of usability. I love my Canons [I now have three different bodies] and I went with them originally because Nikon didn't feel 'right' to me. For everyone like me, there will be another that says the opposite.
speramus in juniperus
|
|
|
|
|
I am a Nikon person, have been for many years because they feel right to me but as Jorgen has pointed out it depends on many factors including budget.
When I originally went to upgrade my film camera to digital I intended on buying the D3100 but when I got to the store the sales person handled me a D5000 and talked about the benefits over the D3100 so I got it instead and am really glad I did, it's been a great camera. Recently I upgraded to the D7000 and also purchased a couple of good lenses and the level of my photography has improved dramatically.
I will make one recommendation whatever body you end up with invest in good glass it makes all the difference in the world.
Good luck in your decision and most of all enjoy shooting!
|
|
|
|
|
Supporting your good-glass notion:
Kodak's bridging cameras (super-telephotos) mostly used Schneider-Kreuznach lens. Those anal-rententive German lens-grinders are awesome.
I had, one Black Friday, purchased a Nikon camera equivalent to this class of Kodak, but, of course, with their Nikor lens. It went back to the store the next morning. It was also a matter of usability and poor low-light focusing (vis-a-vis a much older Kodak DZ710). I now have a principle camera of a Kodak Z990 - sadly they no longer are in the camera business.
Relating back to DSLR: It may be a good option to find the one with the most 3rd-party support for lens, etc.
| "The difference between genius and stupidity is that genius has its limits." - Albert Einstein | | "As far as we know, our computer has never had an undetected error." - Weisert | | "If you are searching for perfection in others, then you seek disappointment. If you are seek perfection in yourself, then you will find failure." - Balboos HaGadol Mar 2010 |
|
|
|
|
|
If he goes with either Canon or Nikon Tamron, Sigma and Tokina make very fine affordable lenses. Of course the manufacturer's lenses are the best but you pay dearly for them.
|
|
|
|
|
All entry level dSLR cameras are the same; all have some features that are unique.
The Pentax k30, for example, offer an entry level dSLR with weather resistance (with matching lenses) that other brands of the same level do not. ( I have a Pentax k5 and use it in all weather).
If you want to use the video mode, Canon is very good, even at entry level.
Nikon, IMO, have the best auto-focus.
Olympus offer nice 4/3 mirrorless cameras, same thing with Fujifilm. (and Nikon)
Go to a brick and mortar specialized store and try them all.
I'd rather be phishing!
|
|
|
|
|
So I will provide two choices and defend my personal choice while scorning the other : )
Buy an expense lens and then whatever camera you can afford. My dream lens is the Canon 70-200mm/2.8 L II with IS or whatever the full description is. A drool worthy choice. As for camera I have an aging Canon 50D but again, camera is not as important as lens.
|
|
|
|
|
Bow locks and such. I have found a nice little place that will fix my cracked mudguard for a very reasonable amount with one caveat. I must remove the said mudguard and deliver it to them.
Four bolts and the indicator unit. Simples.
Abso-bloody-elephant-lutly not! The four bolts are so badly rusted that even freeze-release spray isn't working. I can't torch them as I [0] am worried about damaging the mudguard and [1] don't have a blow-torch.
Is drilling out the only option? The bolts have a cross screw end and a 10mm bolt. The cross screw won't take ANY of my screwdrivers. Woe is me, woe and woe again. 
speramus in juniperus
|
|
|
|
|
I would persist with WD40 or the equivalent - give a good spray using the fine straw, leave, come back, spray again a few times .. also (I dont know how big these bolts are), give them a good thump with maybe a hammer, spray with wd40, then try again...
drilling them out is a pita - if you can drill a decent hole, you may be able to use a bolt extractor, but its a sh*tty job
|
|
|
|
|
Drill is a good option, if you can - it depends on what kind of fixing it is:
If it's a screw head at one end and a 10mm nut at the other, then a nut splitter is a good option, or saw the bolt flush to the nut, then drill the bolt from that end - you should be able to drill out the bolt and some of the nut thread so it quickly loosens. As soon as it loosens, make a little space and start with a hammer to free the bolt itself, using the nut as a drift to prevent you hammering the material it's screwed through.
If its a "blind hole" with a 10mm and cross head on the same end, its a PITA - as you have got to get the whole bolt out to refit it after, and while drilling is an easy way to remove the mudguard, you end up with a bolt that is virtually flush to the thread surface it it stuck into. That means easy-outs (which should be called easy-snap-swear-plasma-arc-removal instead) I'm afraid - or a long careful drill and probably a helicoil afterwards.
The only instant messaging I do involves my middle finger.
|
|
|
|
|
I think you've given me an idea; not that I have the tools.
The bolts go through the mudguard. On the top/outside is a flat cross head [not Phillips], the bolt goes through mudguard and the support bar. The on the underside/inside is a washer and the nut.
If I can split the nuts off [ooh err Mrs!] I can do the job. Then all I have to worry about is replacing the nuts & bolts.
speramus in juniperus
|
|
|
|
|
If you've got the space, it's the easiest way: Damn good[^], Cheaper but very effective[^] - or you can get hydraulic / pneumatic ones if you have the kit which will go through the nut like a coder through bacon.
Or just use a hacksaw and go down vertically through the nut and bolt to cut the nut in half - don't try a chisel as they are a PITA and tend to slip and make a horrible mess...
The only instant messaging I do involves my middle finger.
|
|
|
|
|
I'd persist with the WD40 for a while - On the Spittie I'd occasionally have a go up to a week with the stuff. Liquid magic.
If you still have problems:
This page should help[^] The first option(the nut splitter) is really good if you have/ can get access to the nut. I've not use the screw extractor, but worth a punt? Also, sometimes heating with a blowtorch and giving, when cool, another soak in WD40 sometimes works. If the nut head is totally gone, occasionally mould/vice grips will get purchase.
[Edit]
As I say, I've not tried them, but the screw/nut extractor looks handy: this video[^]
Pure drilling into a threaded bit of bodywork is a PITA: you end up having to re-tap the thread, which then is necessarily larger than the one you extracted. Thats assuming you can drill out evenly in the first place.
|
|
|
|
|
Keith Barrow wrote: you end up having to re-tap the thread
Or fit a helicoil[^] which briongs it back to the standard size. I've gone through a few of these in my time...
The only instant messaging I do involves my middle finger.
|
|
|
|
|
Oooh. I wish I knew about those ten years ago.
Still, the drip-drip-drip tactics are on with the wife for a new classic car so good to know about!
|
|
|
|
|
Oh yes! That way you don't end up with six bolts one size, and the final one different, or a different thread count, or... 
The only instant messaging I do involves my middle finger.
|
|
|
|
|
I are doing the same vis-a-vis a new motorbike. Type identified and approved by herself. Money has to be mine...
speramus in juniperus
|
|
|
|
|
If the head of the bolt is big enough and your hands steady enough you can use an angle grinder and cut the sides of the bolt in parallel and then use a spanner on it.
But don't blame me if you destroy the mudguard in the process.
If you haven't used WD40 yet you can use oxalic acid instead, it's more efficient against basically any oxides. But it's water soluble, so it's not usable on greasy/oily surfaces.
And watch out, it completely destroys the look of anodized aluminium.
Be excellent to each other. And... PARTY ON, DUDES!
Abraham Lincoln
|
|
|
|
|
Use a hacksaw to cut a slot in the bolt heads for a screwdriver, and if you've got an automatic punch, use it on the sides of the bolt a few times.
[edit] Use the punch on the sides of the nut, not the bolt.
I wanna be a eunuchs developer! Pass me a bread knife!
|
|
|
|
|
For problems such as these I use a Dremel MotoTool.
I can reslot the bolts, cut off either end (depending upon accessibility), and otherwise cause mayhem limited only to the target component.
It's a handy and precise weapon for many battles.
| "The difference between genius and stupidity is that genius has its limits." - Albert Einstein | | "As far as we know, our computer has never had an undetected error." - Weisert | | "If you are searching for perfection in others, then you seek disappointment. If you are seek perfection in yourself, then you will find failure." - Balboos HaGadol Mar 2010 |
|
|
|
|
|
W∴ Balboos wrote: It's a handy and precise weapon for many battles.
Oh, sure.
... If all you fight is fairies at the bottom of the garden![^]
Never underestimate the communicative effect of a smack in the mouth
|
|
|
|
|
Unless you've rounded the heads off I suggest getting a bigger cheater pipe to stick over the end of your ratchet. Adding 4 or 5 feet of pipe will turn you from a pasty faced code money into He-Man.
Did you ever see history portrayed as an old man with a wise brow and pulseless heart, waging all things in the balance of reason?
Is not rather the genius of history like an eternal, imploring maiden, full of fire, with a burning heart and flaming soul, humanly warm and humanly beautiful?
--Zachris Topelius
Training a telescope on one’s own belly button will only reveal lint. You like that? You go right on staring at it. I prefer looking at galaxies.
-- Sarah Hoyt
|
|
|
|
|
Dan Neely wrote: Unless you've rounded the heads off
even in this case all may not be lost. A good Stillson wrench can get a purchase on almost any metal surface if there's sufficient space to use it.
Andy B
|
|
|
|
General 
News 
Suggestion 
Question 
Bug 
Answer 
Joke 
Praise 
Rant 
Admin 
Submit an article or tip
