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I asked the internet search engines, and came across conflicting experts. (Who'da'thunkit ?)
If we build a card with a video camera which uses a Bluetooth connection back to "home base" so to speak, can we expect a robust and clear video result for the user ?
I'm not clear on how to do the arithmetic.
What times what, divided by what, gives me what result ?
Then of course, I need to consider things like theoretical scientific stuff on the internet -vs- what we're going to experience in real life; but that's a different conversation.
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In theory the data should be as good as any other transport mechanism, but only testing can tell you for sure. You do appreciate that Bluetooth is only for very short (<10 metre) distances?
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Richard MacCutchan wrote: ...Bluetooth is only for very short (<10 metre) distances...
Understood. The existing design ("dream" might be a better word after some recent feedback from my gang at work) will be boxes in the attic. It's all up in the air now.
Might not even happen at all.
Oh well, I thought it was a pretty good idea.
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Bluetooth doesn't penetrate walls (and ceilings) very well. I think you'll face a lot of signal quality problems.
The difficult we do right away...
...the impossible takes slightly longer.
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Something else to keep in mind are the data rates available in the Bluetooth standards. The rates are pretty low, so you could stream video but you'd have to do a bunch of compression and probably accept the fact that the video won't be all that good. Bluetooth works for audio because the data rates of compressed audio are very low.
See Bluetooth rates here (under "uses"): https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Bluetooth[^]
In contrast, WiFi rates are significantly better... so system design question to you might be, you can use Bluetooth, but why would you? What are the benefits from such a system?
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Check.
Bluetooth is out for this gig.
The reasons you enumerate are exactly what went through my head.
Obviously, you're a smart guy.  
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I hope this is the correct forum for such questions..
Is an adapter (the wrapper, that is) really needed in order to put a nano SIM into a micro SIM slot? I tried without one and there doesn't seem any problems. So, my question is, if I continue like this, apart from trivial "non-detection of the SIM card case", what is the worst that could happen? Agreed, those adapters are so cheap to buy, but just wondering...
Thanks in advance.
You have just been Sharapova'd.
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Agent__007 wrote: what is the worst that could happen?
You can short the voltage/ground leads that are going to the card. That could potentially mess up your phone since the source that would burn out would be in the phone and not the SIM.
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Why are you stressing on sim adapter
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What questions should I ask about surge protection and Uninterrupted Power Supplies ?
What's important ? What's marketing mulch ?
At the moment, I don't really have the vocabulary to know how to read the ads.
What numbers are real stuff, and what numbers are so what ?
Thanks for any education you might care to offer. It'll help a lot.
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Just a small hint: You might want to watch out for idle cooler noise if you plan to use it in your office. I once bought one where the description said nothing about it and even in idle it was many times louder than my PC 
If the brain were so simple we could understand it, we would be so simple we couldn't. — Lyall Watson
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First of all always look for well known suppliers, that will give you better guarantee.
Then look for a true sinusoidal UPS, which means that the output is sinus shaped resembling the line waveform. The cheaper square-wave devices can create problems to switching power supplies of PC and other electronic devices. For more or less the same reason check the minimum allowed load power factor, this parameters directly deals with current phasing of inductive loads, but for electronic devices lower power factors means that the UPS can tolerate higher waveform distortion and the harmonics generated, again, by switching power supplies of electronic devices.
If you are looking for medium-high power UPS's looking at characteristics you'll find also an harmonic THD distortion, the lower the best.
About surge protection don't worry too much, an UPS device by default give surge protection: A surge is a fast transient overvoltage of power line (up to 200-250% of nominal value), because an UPS output is controlled and regulated you should be theoretically free from them.
Another important characteristic is the autonomy: how many minutes of power it can deliver at nominal power. This defines the dimensions of the battery pack. Choose the right time you need, the batteries are very expensive and are also delicate. Remember that batteries have a lifespan (that depends very much on ambient temperature, higher the temperature shorter the life), good quality batteries will guarantee a life of 18-24 months at 25°C +/-2°C.
modified 14-Jun-15 15:55pm.
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Hi All,
I have always used VMWare on my laptop for studying purposes. The laptop runs an i5, 6GB RAM and standard HDD. It has performed pretty well overall for running 1-2 servers and a client over the last few years, but as you can imagine, it's at its limits!
I have picked out a new machine running an i7-4790, 32GB RAM, 256GB SSD with a 2TB HDD. It will be running Windows 8.1 Pro and as far as I can tell, the OS and spec support all the requirements to run Hyper-V.
I am aware there are only 8 threads on the i7, but this machine is only for study purposes so the machines won't be running anything too heavy and only running perhaps 3-4 VM's at once. How will the machine stack up? I know it will be a massive improvement in comparison to what I have now, but I don't want to spend out and then find there is a bottleneck holding me back!
Thanks
modified 9-Jun-15 11:29am.
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Is there any way to test a PC power supply under load without hooking it up to actual PC parts?
I have a power supply tester that shows the voltages coming out of the supply, but it does not place an actual load on the supply.
The difficult we do right away...
...the impossible takes slightly longer.
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PC power supplies require a minimal load to source output voltages inside the specification range. Some will check if a load is connected and switch off outputs with no load. So each of the 3.3, 5, and 12 V rails should be connected to some kind of load.
For the 5 and 12 V rails I would use an old drive (floppy, CD/DVD, or hard disk). The 3.3 V rail can be connected to a load resistor (e.g. 3.3 Ohm, 5 Watt). Finally you must connect the Power On signal (Pin 16/14 for ATX-24/-20) to GND.
It might be necessary to connect an additional load resistor to the 12 V rail because the load may be not enough when the motor of a conncted drive is not running.
Additional information can be found at the Wikipedia[^] page (see also the links at the bottom).
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Thank you!
The difficult we do right away...
...the impossible takes slightly longer.
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You will need voltage meter for this.
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My mouse clicks are disappearing.
i.e., I click, and sometimes the machine (or website) responds as expected, sometimes there is no response.
Concurrent observation: My keystrokes are frequently delayed.
i.e., what I type appears on the screen, but delayed.
Other concurrent observation: Some of the mouse clicks are delayed, while others just don't occur.
Who's the most likely culprit ?
Worn out mouse ?
Driver in Windows ?
-- OS --
Win'7
-- Mouse --
Whatever they included with my $350 Walmart website computer three years ago.
It has a bright red LED on the bottom side to do the tracking.
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Take a look at perfmon.exe (run it as an admin), and find out if some processes use up a non-adequate amount of resources (processor, harddisk, memory).
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Run pc in safe mode if working well there then it's driver problem.
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After 3+ years of living without any printer in my life, I believe that I should acquire one again.
Interesting market changes; seems like ink jets have made significant headway in the market over the lasers. Yes ? No ?
At the moment, my knowledge comes only from the marketing departments of the manufacturers and retailers and their obfuscated/distracting websites; so I remain the student.
I'm thinking cost. Last I remember, a page from an inkjet could easily cost 10 or 20 times as much as a similar page from a laser printer.
With beautiful color printing, the cost could hit a dollar or two per page.
However,,,,,,,,,,,
These measures and estimates were done a decade ago.
Anybody who knows about these things as they are in the Summer of 2015, please chime in.
What questions do I want to ask ?
What do I want to know ?
What are the marketing departments NOT telling me ?
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I've always just used an ink-jet all-in-one and called it good. I used to buy HP, but the materials seem flimsy now, so my current device is from Brother. There are some things that just aren't worth spending a lot of time thinking about. Go to a store that has a bunch on display and choose one.
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Setting up home office.
Do I want a combination Modem And Router ?
Or,,,,
Do I want a modem, and a router, in two separate and distinct boxes ?
I'm 99.99% sure that I want to do as much as I can with wireless connection(s).
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Unless you foresee a change in line technology, I'd go for a combination. One less box to worry about. I have had a couple of ADSL modem + 4 port router + wifi boxes, and they do just fine. 3 wired ports in use and about 6 wireless devices. Whatever you get, make sure you lock down the admin access.
Cheers,
Peter
Software rusts. Simon Stephenson, ca 1994. So does this signature. me, 2012
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Go for the two in one option if oyu have a choice.
I don't have a choice as my ISP provides me with a fibre router(fibre cable in and one cat5 out) - I run a router/gateway off that.
My main computers then run off the gateway via Cat5 and I also have the wireless, on the gateway, switched on so that I can use mobile devices around the flat.
“That which can be asserted without evidence, can be dismissed without evidence.”
― Christopher Hitchens
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