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I bought a cheap "UPS" from Staples, which was a mistake. No sparks, but it's not a true "UPS" - it takes a few tenths of a second to switch over to battery, by which time the devices on it have powered off.
So, make sure you get a UPS that actually generates the AC from the battery and doesn't do a "switch over" from the mains to the battery.
Can't tell if that CyberPower model does that or not.
but it's not a true "UPS" - it takes a few tenths of a second to switch over to battery, by which time the devices on it have powered off.
Thanks for the info. I was trying to determine the same thing. Is this the option where it is sine wave versus square wave? I just can't tell. The flickers are the exact thing I'm trying to get rid of.
I've owned or managed at least 30 or 40 of those things (2 at home others at companies where I worked for years) and never ever they emitted anything that was not expected.
Thanks for the great info. This is what I was looking for...various people chiming in who've had a lot of experience with them. I too wondered how it would be a valid product if that sort of thing happened even 1 in 10,000. Thanks again.
One additional piece of advice : test your UPS periodically. I work for a rather large manufacturing company and we have UPS' on probably every system in the factories but no one ever tests them so I am willing to bet a majority are useless. The last service call I had to deal with was because of corrupted files that resulted from a power loss where the UPS immediately died because its batteries were shot.
"They have a consciousness, they have a life, they have a soul! Damn you! Let the rabbits wear glasses! Save our brothers! Can I get an amen?"
I have an APC Back-UPS PRO 550. This one is 3 years old. I have had many others over the last 20+ years. Mostly from APC. I used to have hard disk drives fail before that. Never since. The main benefit is the clean power. On the occasions when there is a blackout I get a few minutes of runtime. If I am around at the time I shut the system down cleanly before the juice runs out.
I agree with the other reply that said the main hassle is replacing the battery every few years.
I had several APC over the years. As others have stated, the batteries die after several years. Also I find they don't allow for prolonged used without electricity (the ~USD100 ones can give you power for 15 minutes).
What I've been wondering for my own setup here is whether it would be possible to have some battery powered modems and routers: you would avoid useless conversions (your UPS's battery converted to AC 100/240V then converted back to DC around 5 to 12V).
your UPS's battery converted to AC 100/240V then converted back to DC around 5 to 12V)
I know. I thought about that too and it is very interesting because you could have a very small battery running the wifi router and cable modem since they both have external adapters that convert to 5 or 12 V.
The challenge is to have the battery kick in when the 120V is lost. I've done some Arduino and electronics stuff so I'd like to look into building something.
Outlet spacing matters. Take a look at Power Splitters/Spiders to get those power "wall warts" away from the back and allow more plugged in.
That "everything else" list grows when you get a UPS. My list:
- (CL) Server for Plex, Minecraft, etc.
- (CL) My desktop development rig
- Power spider with speakers, monitor, & USB hub.
- Power spider with 2 Gigabit switches, Vera Edge, HD dock, and phone base station
- Power spider with cable modem, router, & Vonage adapter
- Power spider with 2 WD EX4100 NAS boxes
I'm sure some would call this overloaded, but I figure the wall warts for most stuff I have plugged in don't draw too much and I tried spreading the load across all the outlets.
With the above setup, I just got 46 minutes run time in a test last week on 8 month old batteries. You do need to change batteries every couple years or so.
Be sure to use the monitoring software that comes with the unit you get.
And don't plug in a laser printer to a UPS. Not sure where I heard that advice from years ago, but I stick with it...
I have always had a UPS and never had problems with sparking. The problems I have had are batteries dying after a few years resulting in battery replacement when economical or unit replacement when not, failure to kick in quickly enough form some early APC units and figuring out where to place them and the tangle of power cords.
We get many thunderstorms where I live. Power is glitchy even w/o the storms.
I used an APC 1400 SmartUPS for many years.
One thing to make sure you a unit with the capacity to handle the load you have on it.
I replaced the tower machine I used at the time with an HP Z800 with an 1100W power supply. Never gave the size of the APC unit a thought until the Z800 killed the UPS.
Discovered that HP recommends a 2200VA unit for the Z800. I got the APC 2200 SmartUPS unit.
It gets delivered by a tractor trailer on a skid. Unit weighs 110 Lbs. Took two people to lug it up to my ROG. And they typically take a special power cord. Mine required an L5 outlet.
Normally, you'd want that load on a 220V circuit, since the ROG is the 4th bedroom I didn't think it would be too wise to have a 220V circuit in what might at some point (after I am out of the house) revert back and become a child's bedroom.
Even if you aren't using a machine as large as the HP, best to make sure that you match the capacity of the unit to the equipment you are plugging into it. And keep in mind the UPS will likely outlast you computer, so it is probably wise to get a unit larger than your immediate need.