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dan neely wrote: I'm doing C# work, not drivers
Thats worse. The kernel never changes that much, 95% of todays kernel api on Windows 7 is just the same as NT4 (its probably the same as NT 3 but I didnt start writing drivers till NT4). The only new bit is PnP and power stuff, and in fact an NT4 driver can still run on Vista etc. They are also all written in C.
By comparison, having new apis / languages thrust on you every time the latest catchword technology hits the streets, COM, Java, .Net etc, many of which end up dying after 5 or 10 years wasting all the effort one invested as a career move.
Give me the kernel anyday.
Morality is indistinguishable from social proscription
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Anyone not using a tried and tested service pack for an OS is a dick anyway so just tell them feature 'X' isnt available unless they do.
Morality is indistinguishable from social proscription
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I'm pretty sure they wouldn't take to kindly to that 
Like I mentioned before, if I had my druthers, they'd all be forced to use XP SP3, no exception. Unfortunately, the reality is that this will not happen, and there is no reason for them to update the old machines, in their minds, since none of the boxes face the outside world. It will slowly happen, however, as they retire old hardware: so I'll just bide my time.
Regards,
-B
"[F]reedom isn't a licence, it's responsibility." [David Gerrold, Author's Note in "The Man Who Folded Himself", 2003, p. 119]
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Hi All,
Today I just re-installed my Graphics Driver with the latest WHQL Driver release (175) for nVidia 8800 GT under Windows XP. I had installed beta version of their new driver which comes with CUDA 2.0. The performance was much lower when I installed the beta one. That was the reason I switched back to my older version of driver.
but during the installation the screen went blank 2-3 times and finally, it had shown "No signal". I tried with restoring old restore points and boot the machine with last known good configuration. but I never could install the driver for that.
Finally I formatted Windows XP and tried installing it fresh. but again it has been failed. The same problem occurs. In the same machine I've an installation of Windows Vista, which is working fine with the hardware.
When I checked the device manager i found that the driver for PCI Device is missing. But aint sure whether we need to install these things or not. However its not get going. Can you help me in this regard?
-Sarath.
"Great hopes make everything great possible" - Benjamin Franklin
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I just replaced my monitor with another one. then it was working fine. I think it's the problem with monitor driver. It seems to be corrupted somehow and loading the resolution and refreshing rate which the monitor can't handle.
-Sarath.
"Great hopes make everything great possible" - Benjamin Franklin
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Have you tried connecting both the working and non working monitors at the same time? You should be able to control the system using the former and change the latter to a generic monitor driver and set it to run at a resolution/refresh rate it will function at.
Today's lesson is brought to you by the word "niggardly". Remember kids, don't attribute to racism what can be explained by Scandinavian language roots.
-- Robert Royall
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I've got a WD My Book Premium ES 500GB external hard disk (and most likely will never be buying anything from Western Digital in the future). I should have read Amazon customer reviews before I bought it, oh well...
It started dying after 11 months (or so) with Acronis TrueImage complaining that it could not read from some sectors. Now I have it off for most of the time as it's constantly spinning after powered up and slows down Windows, even hangs up Explorer (I think this should not happen, Vista should cope with a non-accessible external hard drive where there's nothing OS related, right?!  ).
Anyway, I suspect this may be only a corrupt NTFS, because it's generally accessible after some time. I looked at it in GParted and it just told me to run chkdsk /f. Fine, but this particular drive has a feature which puts it in a stand by mode when it's idle for 10mins or more. So, I run CHKDSK and it happily proceeds to fix some errors with MFT and Virtual Map (whatever this is..), but after some time I notice it's not 'moving' (CHKDSK, that is) and the drive is in stand by mode - at this point I can no longer access its contents w/o restarting it. :/
Do you have any ideas on how to prevent it from going to sleep?
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Assuming the warranty is void (or you value your data more than the remainder of it), pop it out of the enclosure and connect it as an internal HD to your PC.
Today's lesson is brought to you by the word "niggardly". Remember kids, don't attribute to racism what can be explained by Scandinavian language roots.
-- Robert Royall
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dan neely wrote: Assuming the warranty is void
I think I have 1 more year to go.  I'm trying to solve the problem myself without support first and without tinkering with hardware, but thanks.
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Pawel Krakowiak wrote: I think I have 1 more year to go.
that makes it more interesting, your warranty coverage will most likely result in your getting a new package and loosing whatever data was on the drive itself. The only possible exception would be if they did a diagnosis first and IDed a problem with the enclosure itself.
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I have some paper with a support ID which says the expiry date is 3/31/09 and on the box it says I have 3 years limited warranty. I still have to consult the supplier and the invoice I got when I bought it.
But I would really like to copy a few files and ideally wipe out the disk before I give it away for support, I'm kinda paranoid.
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Sector read errors are hardly just a corrupted NTFS issue. The drive is having problems reading the physical disk. The reason the drive goes to sleep is because there is no I/O activity going on. CHKDSK sent commands to the drive which either didn't get to the drive, or the drive didn't process and CHKDSK is still waiting. Therefore, since neither CHKDSK nor the drive is hearing what it needs to, the drive goes to sleep. Since CHKDSK very nearly keeps I/O going on the drive continuously, AFAICT, no, there is no way to turn this off on the drive.
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Another thing I noticed is that if I power up the drive in Windows, it starts spinning (at least the light circle indicator does) continuously and is inaccessible during that time. It takes at least a few minutes for it to 'calm down'.
I tried running HDD Regenerator, but since its a USB drive the program can't access it before Windows loads.  HDD Regenerator uses some Windows 98 stuff, I am running Vista.
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You have no choice but to take the drive out of the enclosure and stick in the machine. If the drive won't access for minutes at a time, the drive is having problems with any of the following:
-Maintaining spindle speed
-Seek position
-BoT "heartbeat"
-Communication with the USB host (NOT the computer). This is the interface doing the translation between USB and the drive controller.
None of this stuff is going to be fixed by any piece of software you have, or can get...
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Thanks. It became inaccessible anyway.  I just wanted to try to get a few files and perhaps wipe it out, but I guess I have no choice and have to hand it over to support. I do have the warranty yet. By the way - it passes SMART tests...
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Hi!
I have a project that requires a Win2k system to reboot without reinitialization of the parallel port. The post must initialize obviously but I don't want it to change the pin settings.
Currently, I'm using a hardware solution that is clumsy at best, using a gate, a latch and a debounce chip.
Does anyone have any circuit solutions? The simplest is of most interest.
Thanks
SpaceDoc
SpaceDoc
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My HD has ckt board damaged and may be motor is
also demaged is there any method to get data from HD plates
Can i put plates in another HD and get it?
Thanx
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If the new drive is identical to the firmware revision of the old one yes. If you do this, the drive is not fixed permanently. breaking the clean room seal will cause it to die in short order, so immediately copy all your data off after reassembly. If the data on the drive is worth spending several hundred to several thousand dollars to be professionally recovered, don't attempt this or any other DIY repair efforts. IF they fail you've probably destroyed the data beyond recovery.
Today's lesson is brought to you by the word "niggardly". Remember kids, don't attribute to racism what can be explained by Scandinavian language roots.
-- Robert Royall
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Good advise about going with having a professional data recovery service do the job. I sure wouldn't want to try. 
"The clue train passed his station without stopping." - John Simmons / outlaw programmer
"Real programmers just throw a bunch of 1s and 0s at the computer to see what sticks" - Pete O'Hanlon
"Not only do you continue to babble nonsense, you can't even correctly remember the nonsense you babbled just minutes ago." - Rob Graham
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as with anything it comes down to what your data's worth. If it's only worth $50-100 a DIY platter transfer is your only real option. If it's worth $500+ you'd be an idiot to not send it to the pros. The in between cases are rather more interesting...
Today's lesson is brought to you by the word "niggardly". Remember kids, don't attribute to racism what can be explained by Scandinavian language roots.
-- Robert Royall
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The owner of myharddrivedied.com has a video of a presentation[^] where he explains swapping circuit boards. It's not something to try for the first time on a drive that you care about, though.
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SIr, i am planning to buy a new assembled PC with the following specifications:
1. Core2Duo E7200
2. IntelDG31PR (motherboard)
3. Zion 2*1 gb DDR2
4. Seagate 250 GB SATA2
5. Lite on DVD writer
6. Logitec KB+Optical Mouse Bundle
7. LG L194WT 19" Widescreen LCD
8. APC 500 VA
My doubt is about SMPS. How much power is needed for an SMPS for the above configuration. Please suggest me a few budget SMPS.
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Gjm wrote: My doubt is about SMPS. How much power is needed for an SMPS for the above configuration. Please suggest me a few budget SMPS.
If by SMPS you mean PSU or Power Supply Unit, then give the Antec Power Supply Calculator[^] a go. Fill in the page with what you know will be in the computer and it will tell you what the power consumption will be. Then take the next size PSU in wattage and your good to go. As for brand, whatever your pocket can afford, though Antec, Coolermaster, Thermaltake etc. have good reputations.
Michael Martin
Australia
"I controlled my laughter and simple said "No,I am very busy,so I can't write any code for you". The moment they heard this all the smiling face turned into a sad looking face and one of them farted. So I had to leave the place as soon as possible."
- Mr.Prakash One Fine Saturday. 24/04/2004
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Michael Martin wrote: As for brand, whatever your pocket can afford,
That's only true if you can afford a decent brand. Buying a $20 "600W" PSU that promptly smokes your hardware is not a good idea. Cut the rest of your system a bit if you're that tight on your budget.
http://www.jonnyguru.com/modules.php?name=NDReviews&op=Story&reid=71[^]
Today's lesson is brought to you by the word "niggardly". Remember kids, don't attribute to racism what can be explained by Scandinavian language roots.
-- Robert Royall
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"the computer is unable to establish two-way with the device"
What's happening? I have a HP DeskJet F2120. A google search turned up nothing for my printer.
Chuck Norris has the greatest Poker-Face of all time. He won the 1983 World Series of Poker, despite holding only a Joker, a Get out of Jail Free Monopoloy card, a 2 of clubs, 7 of spades and a green #4 card from the game UNO.
In the movie "The Matrix", Chuck Norris is the Matrix. If you pay close attention in the green "falling code" scenes, you can make out the faint texture of his beard.
Chuck Norris actually owns IBM. It was an extremely hostile takeover.
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