|
I missed the start of the saga... what type of car is it? Is (was) the locking nut flush mounted to the rim?
|
|
|
|
|
It is a MB C63, the locking nuts are recessed into the alloy (by about 1.5inch), are flat faced with a groove cut in them and also have a spinning ring round the edge. There is next to 0 space between them and the recess wall.
|
|
|
|
|
Oh... you won't like my suggestion then!! (FWIW, I was going to suggest grinding the stud off from behind the hub.) Perhaps not with that car!! 
|
|
|
|
|
This is interesting. Are these wheel nuts genuine MB?
Peter Wasser
Art is making something out of nothing and selling it.
Frank Zappa
|
|
|
|
|
|
So are the nuts a pos or has human error played a part here?
Peter Wasser
Art is making something out of nothing and selling it.
Frank Zappa
|
|
|
|
|
I think that the bolts were originally over torqued or have seized over time. Then when I tried to release them using a standard MB tyre iron, it slipped and dogged the nut. Had I used a proper breaker bar I probably would have been OK.
|
|
|
|
|
|
I'm not familiar with the vehicle, Dave, but is it possible to get to the backside of the studs? On US cars and all Asian vehicles I've seen, the studs are pressed into the axle plate. If there's any thread left, it's SOP to use a nut and puller, but in extreme cases, the studs can be driven out from behind. You'll probably have to drill out the part that engages the nut from the front in order to get the wheel off and expose the axle plate, but from there it should be reasonably easy to replace the studs.
Alternatively, you could drag it somewhere distant from your house, set fire to it, and file a stolen vehicle claim with the insurance company.
Will Rogers never met me.
|
|
|
|
|
Easyouts seldome work, they often break leaving the very hard metal that it is made of behind. Which is wosre.
Weld something to it. A big nut often works well, if not a bolt. At the very least the heat will denature the steel rendering it drillable, and will break the bond with the hub making it easier to get off.
Of course you could just take off the upright and brake pipe and get another one from a breakers yard. 
|
|
|
|
|
Like Fat_boy says.
Fit a thin piece of rolled up brass sheet around the bolt/nut to protect the rim, and arc weld a large bolt onto it. The heat itself might also help to loosen the wheel.
The question is,is there enough space?
Is it really wheel nuts? I thought MB used wheel bolts
|
|
|
|
|
Yes it a wheel bolt.
The generally adopted term whether it is a nut or bolt, is 'wheel nut'.
|
|
|
|
|
It's one of these linguistic features you just have live in the country to know about.
|
|
|
|
|
My brother had an Oldsmobile F-85 once.
When he was changing tyres on it, he had no problems on the first side, but on the other side the nuts where completely stuck.
So he put two pipes on the rim cross for leverage. When he had twisted off the bolt he realized it had a left hand threading. 
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
If that's reduced, I'm curious what the original price was.
|
|
|
|
|
That's exactly what I was thinking. No wonder you don't see them everywhere!
|
|
|
|
|
A really cool application of physics[^].
|
|
|
|
|
Pretty amazing, but the way he explains it it makes sense.
|
|
|
|
|
I need to send some commands to a USB device.
I want a piece of freeware to do this.
Actually, I want two pieces.
First piece: some sort of simple GUI that will let me define the bytes and test my guess.
I'm not sure whether or not I want one byte, two, three, or 27 of them.
Second piece: the same thing, but no GUI, just something I can execute from a command line (actually, a LUA script will invoke the command with parameters written into a line like this...
os.execute()
I'm wondering if terminal by bray might fit the bill for the first piece.
|
|
|
|
|
|
Good call, thanks.
That guy seems to have a similar goal.
I have a device on the other end of a USB cable.
It accepts commands; and possibly sends ACK and NAK signals back to me; I don't know at the moment. That's what I'm going to find out.
I went ahead and put Terminal by Bray on this machine to experiment and see what command does what action.
What I want is a command line [program/batfile/whatever] that will send Bytes X,Y,Z,etc. out to port "N" (at what speed, I don't know) and if it's USB, From what I vaguely remember, that almost becomes irrelevant; most times, anyway.
|
|
|
|
|
I'm not sure if you read the thread Dave Auld gave you. You are thinking of your USB device as a simple comms port of some kind which it is not. It may implement a serial port as one of its interfaces but if it does then you communicate with that (after the device driver is installed) and not the USB device as such. For that you can use Putty or whatever. Otherwise as the link concludes you are out of luck unless you know about the interfaces it implements. Then you can cobble up a small program yourself.
Peter Wasser
Art is making something out of nothing and selling it.
Frank Zappa
modified 3-Feb-14 19:32pm.
|
|
|
|
|
We have a box.
It has a USB cable.
We plug it in.
I send bytes to that port.
Hmmm, you say putty ? Certainly worth trying.
|
|
|
|
General 
News 
Suggestion 
Question 
Bug 
Answer 
Joke 
Praise 
Rant 
Admin 
Submit an article or tip
