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My three month out of warranty (5 years) Dell XPS13 2-in-1 suddenly died (as in it shut off while in use and wouldn't turn back on). I replaced it with a Dell XPS 15 laptop. The first thing I did was install the Microsoft sourced Windows 11 from a USB stick. I had to use another PC to get the disk and network drivers from Dell, but Dell makes that ridiculously easy to do once you have the service tag.
My impressions of Windows 11 is that it still has some rough edges and one major UI flaw:
1) UI Flaw: The Start menu in Windows 10 was highly configurable and allowed you to create program groups. This made for extremely fast access to programs and files (using the free Pin File program from the Microsoft Store). Windows 11 does away with all this in favor of a more cell phone like model, but without the flexibility my Android phone has for this purpose.
2) MS-Edge in Windows 11 freezes when there are multiple "videos" attempting to play at the same time. I don't know if this is a device driver issue on my machine or if it's a problem in Edge itself.
In all other aspects it seems to be Windows 10 with a few minor and unobtrusive changes.
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I use Linux, and for home dev work, I have a Win7 VM with updates turned off.
".45 ACP - because shooting twice is just silly" - JSOP, 2010
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You can never have too much ammo - unless you're swimming, or on fire. - JSOP, 2010
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When you pry the gun from my cold dead hands, be careful - the barrel will be very hot. - JSOP, 2013
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 x 10
Charlie Gilley
βThey who can give up essential liberty to obtain a little temporary safety deserve neither liberty nor safety.β BF, 1759
Has never been more appropriate.
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Sorry for going back to such an old thread. Apparently I wanted to go over it but hadn't caught up until now. Felt compelled to ask this:
#realJSOP wrote: I have a Win7 VM with updates turned off.
Why turn off updates? MS hasn't been pushing anything for 7 for quite some time now.
But then, given that's the case, I suppose one could argue why leave it on...?
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First, because I didn't want the nag dialogs trying to convince me to "upgrade" to a newer version of windows. Second, I don't allow the VM to connect to the web. If I need something from NuGet, I download it manually on my Linux desktop, and copy it from that location with the VM.
".45 ACP - because shooting twice is just silly" - JSOP, 2010
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You can never have too much ammo - unless you're swimming, or on fire. - JSOP, 2010
-----
When you pry the gun from my cold dead hands, be careful - the barrel will be very hot. - JSOP, 2013
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#realJSOP wrote: First, because I didn't want the nag dialogs trying to convince me to "upgrade" to a newer version of windows
Right. I forgot about that one. I use WSUS, and the update that introduces the nag has been banished from it, so I never saw it - at least from any machine that gets its updates from the patch server.
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I know there are some 3d printer aficionada/os here so here goes nothing:
I think I want a sort of remedial 3d printer if such a thing is out there. It doesn't need to be very big, I just want it to design enclosures or usage panel for small IoT devices. A small music box is about the maximum size I'd need to fab something for.
One issue is I have two long-hair cats, and no real place to put it that they won't be in the same room as.
Again because I'm basically using this to get my feet wet I don't want to go crazy on the budget for it, and I don't need something fancy, but I would like something of relative quality.
Also, I've heard of Blender, but does anyone have any good software recommends I should consider? Must have tools and the like for doing this?
If you have specific printer recommends that's great but what I'm also looking for is things to look for and things to avoid when shopping for one.
I'm totally new at this, and completely out of my element.
To err is human. Fortune favors the monsters.
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There are two types of "domestic" 3D printers: FDM and SL, and they operate differently.
FDM stands for Fused Deposition Modeling, and that uses a "wire" of filament and a very hot head to melt the material, squeeze it out through a narrow nozzle and drop it onto the last layer of material where it all - hopefully - fuses together and makes a complete item. These move the hot head left and right over a base that move back and forth to form each layer, then raises the head for the next layer.
SL stands for Stereolithography, and it uses a tank of liquid material that is exposed from underneath (via an LCD panel mask) to UV which cures it, then the item moves up for the next layer.
There are advantages and disadvantages to both: FDM is normally quicker, and uses a wider range of materials including ABS, and PLA. The models are pretty robust, but not very detailed - the size of the nozzle means that the minimum size of a feature is typically between 200 and 300 micrometers. They can also be a PITA to get set up - a tiny "off" in the bed leveling means you get a birds nest instead of a model. You can also get a lot of "stringing" between unrelated details as the head moves while not extruding with some materials.
SL is slower, because the model is much, much more detailed: typical feature size is around 50 micrometers. They are trivial to set up, but because the model is pulled up, it can need supports, and does need post-print washing and curing. Models can be a lot more fragile than FDM, but there are "tough" resins that mitigate this pretty much. The resin is more expensive that the filament wire, though the price was dropping until recently ...
The big problem can be inquisitive cats: My FDM is in a enclosure to keep the cat away from the filament (he chews it) and the hot (200C) moving printhead is a tempting piece of prey as well ...
My SL is boxed anyway (to prevent UV getting in your eyes), and the movement is both slow and small, so he isn't interested in that. I also have a wash and cure box with a similar cover (which doubles as a "Jewelry washer" for Herself - Isopropanol does double duty here!)
I got the FDM first and wrote a couple of articles:
Adventures in 3D printing Part 1: Fusion, you CAD![^]
Adventures in 3D Printing Part 2: Rise of the 3D Models[^]
Adventures in 3D Printing Part 3: Making Complex Apertures - Recovering from the Bends[^]
For FDM, I have an "Anycubic Mega S", for SL it's "Anycubic Photon Mono" with a "Anycubic Wash and Cure+" that I got for Christmas last year.
Which do I prefer? Difficult. Which do I use by preference? SL, every time! It's slower, not as well "integrated" in that I need an extra software step and have to use a USB thumb to get the data across, but the "failure rate" so far has been zero - which I can't say for the FDM! And the smoothness is a big plus as well.
"I have no idea what I did, but I'm taking full credit for it." - ThisOldTony
"Common sense is so rare these days, it should be classified as a super power" - Random T-shirt
AntiTwitter: @DalekDave is now a follower!
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Thank you ever so much for this. Do you think an SL type would be suitable for creating an actual enclosure? It's not a deal breaker if it's not, because I'll probably just buy those and create a face and mounts in it.
Speaking of, one thing I just thought of - I imagine you can't do this with SL, but with FDM can you augment existing plastic structures? Say I wanted to put some posts inside of an enclosure? Or should I just glue it together?
Edit: I may go with FDM for now, as the cheapest SL I could find on Amazon is about $200 more. I think it's larger, but still, I'd rather spend less for a learning device. I hope Anycubic makes a good product. I like that it's covered.
To err is human. Fortune favors the monsters.
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You can't add to an existing structure with either - the structure would get in the way of the hotend with FDM and would damage the LCD / FEP film with SL. You can glue them together though.
But basically, if you can design it in a cad package, you can print it - though with both you may have to add support structures as otherwise they will "sag" - you can't easily print on air over any significant distance! 
"I have no idea what I did, but I'm taking full credit for it." - ThisOldTony
"Common sense is so rare these days, it should be classified as a super power" - Random T-shirt
AntiTwitter: @DalekDave is now a follower!
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For similar reasons, I bought a Prusa i3 knock-off on Amazon back in 2018. Was under 300$ in kit and really easy to assemble. It's still working fine. One of the belts is a bit worn out and I'll change it one of these days/months/years.
In your case, you might need one with an enclosure around the print space although, given that the bed is hot, cats will probably avoid it. Cat hair should not be an issue as all printers have fans around the extruder to cool down the print.
My tool chain is Fusion 360 plus Slic3r.
Good luck and have fun!
Mircea
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I started out with a cheap Creality machine a few years back to get my feet wet and to see if I would like 3D printing.
Then about 2 years ago I decided I really enjoyed it and wanted to upgrade and bought a Prusa MK3S, which there seems to to be some pretty good, inexpensive knockoffs now and love it. I've had a few minor problems with it but I use it a LOT. It's pretty much a set it and forget it machine; I have TurboCAD to design my projects and PrusaSlicer (Slic3r clone, specifically for their machine) to convert the design to gcode.
I've printed everything from; toys for my grand kids, replacement parts for things around the house, enclosures for my electronic projects and most recently parts for my 800mm X 1000mm CNC machine that I'm building from scratch.
I like simple and the Prusa machine is simple to operate and maintain, but I'm a handy person so easy tome may not be to others.
At any rate the hardest part for me and the largest learning curve was the CAD, which I'm still learning but getting much better at.
Whatever you decide good luck.
[Update]
I forgot the enclosure that I have is very cheap to make... Original Prusa i3 MK3 ENCLOSURE -Ikea Lack table - Prusa Research by cisardom - Thingiverse[^]
Can be for most any printer.
{/Update]
The less you need, the more you have.
Even a blind squirrel gets a nut...occasionally.
JaxCoder.com
modified 26-Mar-22 11:36am.
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A tough one today.
Wordle 280 4/6
β¬π¨β¬β¬β¬
β¬β¬π©β¬β¬
π¨π¨π©β¬π©
π©π©π©π©π©
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Wordle 279 3/6
β¬🟩🟨β¬🟨
🟨🟩β¬🟨🟨
🟩🟩🟩🟩🟩
Pretty easy for me...
Wait a second, 280? How, oh the VPN trick...
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With less information:
β¬π¨β¬β¬β¬
β¬β¬π¨β¬β¬
π©π©π©π©π©
Luc Pattyn [My Articles]
The Windows 11 "taskbar" is disgusting. It should be at the left of the screen, with real icons, with text, progress, etc. They downgraded my developer PC to a bloody iPhone.
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Go to settings, personalization, taskbar, taskbar behavior, taskbar alignment.
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That moves icons inside the taskbar, the taskbar itself remains at the bottom (or top). I want it left of screen.
I tried everything, including all the hacks I could find editing the registry.
Luc Pattyn [My Articles]
The Windows 11 "taskbar" is disgusting. It should be at the left of the screen, with real icons, with text, progress, etc. They downgraded my developer PC to a bloody iPhone.
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Understood. I used to do that, but got crowded on a laptop. I'll do some research.
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Windows folks say it is not available for Win 11 yet!
3rd party software might bring earlier.
This you may already know.
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Thanks.
I'll try and be patient...
Luc Pattyn [My Articles]
The Windows 11 "taskbar" is disgusting. It should be at the left of the screen, with real icons, with text, progress, etc. They downgraded my developer PC to a bloody iPhone.
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I didnβt think that a technical term would actually be considered an English word.
Adhesive? Yes.
Glue? Yes.
But this word? Though I did get it.
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I used to work with this chemical in my Mechanical Engineering lab more than 25 years ago, and didn't think it could be a common English word.
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Wordle 280 3/6
π©π©β¬β¬β¬
π¨β¬β¬π¨β¬
π©π©π©π©π©
Okay this is the one you were talking about...
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So, did you solve puzzle#279 or 280?
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